EGGS A LA MORNAY

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A dome, the colour of creamy corn is adorned with golden crumbs. A few strays have been singed by the heat of the grill. A mound of three layers: smoky and cheesy sauce, poached eggs with bright orange yolk, and finally, buttery fried bread at the bottom. Your spoon cuts through and out bursts a bright orange yolk. The sauce has a hit of clove, and the whole dish is an obscene way to start the day.

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Whilst this recipe is from my Grandmother’s @goodhousekeepinguk book from 1955 this recipe is not English it is French and can be found in Auguste Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire from 1903. However, when something is this decadent, I allow myself to stray from my English food mission.

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The Eggs section of the book had scrambled, boiled, fried, baked and so on, but this and Eggs Fricassee are the only made breakfast dishes with Eggs. Today’s master of this genre, Eggs Benedict, is a fin de siécle recipe from New York and had not yet made its way into the popular imagination here. Wendy’s was the first American Chain to make it to the U.K. in 1954, although they served burgers. The question of who exactly popularised Eggs Benedict here deserves some further study.

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